Friday, July 3, 2020

Slipped Up

It's summer time and that means self-striping patterns! Slipped Up came to mind when I really wanted my stripe changes to show. This design features a double slip stitch that really allows you to see the contrast of the colors. I didn't want to the socks to be too tight so I knit stockinette across the back half of the sock. Happy Knitting! 


Yarn: 437 yards / 400 meters fingering weight yarn 
Needle: US 1.5 / 2.5mm (Needle Ambiguous, you can use your preferred sock knitting method i.e. DPNs, Magic Loop, 9 inch circulars, two circulars.)
Pattern uses Modified Eye of Partridge Heel Flap and Wedge Toe
Gauge: 32 stitches by 32 rows = 4 inches/10 cm in stockinette
Size: Women’s Medium size foot: US 8.5 / EU 39

Notions needed:
Two different stitches markers (One each for A and B)
Darning Needle for Kitchener and weaving in ends  

K: Knit
P: Purl
P2Tog: Purl two together
K2Tog: Knit two together
PW: Purlwise
KW: Knitwise
SSK: Slip, slip, knit
SM: Slip marker
WYIF: With yarn in front
WYIB: With yarn in back

----

Cuff: 

Cast on 64 Stitches and join in the round, being careful not to twist. Place a marker at the beginning of the round, if preferred.

Knit 2, Purl 2 for 18 rounds and in the last round of ribbing place marker B at half-way.

Leg: 

Round 1: Knit until you reach a color change
Round 2: * Slip 1 PWYIB, K * repeat to 1/2 way marker. Knit to the end. 

    On the next round slip the slips again and knit the knits. Each slip will have been slipped twice. 

Starting heel flap. (You will be working flat on half of your stitches) 

If you want to use a contrast heel please start using contrast yarn.

Turn work with wrong side facing, you will be working back across the last 32 stitches.

Row 1: Knit 3, Purl across
Row 2: Purl 3, * K1, slip 1 knitwise with yarn in back * repeat to last 3 stitches, K3
Row 3: Knit 3, Purl across
Row 4: Purl 3, * slip 1 knitwise with yarn in back, K1 * repeat to last 3 stitches, K3 
Repeat these four rows eight times total (You will have 16 Garter Bumps along the edge.)

Starting the heel turn

Row 1: Slip 1 PW WYIF, P16, P2Tog, P1, turn
Row 2: Slip 1 KW WYIB, K3, SSK, K1, turn
Row 3: Slip 1 PW WYIF, P4, P2Tog, P1, turn
Row 4: Slip 1 KW WYIB, K5, SSK, K1, turn  
Row 5: Slip 1 PW WYIF, P6, P2Tog, P1, turn
Row 6: Slip 1 KW WYIB, K7, SSK, K1, turn
Row 7: Slip 1 PW WYIF, P8, P2Tog, P1, turn
Row 8: Slip 1 KW WYIB, K9, SSK, K1, turn
Row 9: Slip 1 PW WYIF, P10, P2Tog, P1, turn
Row 10: Slip 1 KW WYIB, K11, SSK, K1, turn
Row 11: Slip 1 PW WYIF, P12, P2Tog, P1, turn
Row 12: Slip 1 KW WYIB, K13, SSK, K1, turn
Row 13: Slip 1 PW WYIF, P14, P2Tog, P1, turn
Row 14: Slip 1 KW WYIB, K15, SSK, K1

(You should have closed all ‘gaps’ and have 18 stitches from the heel flap and turn)

Cut contrast yarn (if used) and pick up and knit with main color.

Gusset:

Now pick up and Knit 16 stitches along the heel flap (one stitch for every garter bump) 

Once you’ve picked up the first side of the gusset, pick up one extra stitch in between the gusset and top of the foot (This helps close up any small hole between gusset and foot)

Place marker A after picking up and knitting the stitch between gusset and foot.

Work pattern across top of foot, place marker B.

Now pick up and knit one extra stitch between the top of the foot and the next side of the gusset, pick up and knit 16 garter bumps from heel flap. (You now have 84 stitches on your needles, 32 from marker A to B, 52 from marker B to A.)

Knit one round plain (no increasing/decreasing, follow pattern at top of the foot)

After knitting this round, stop three stitches before marker A.

Round 1: K2TOG, K 1, sm, work in pattern to next marker, sm, K1, SSK, continue to round 2.
Round 2: Knit to marker, sm, work in pattern to next marker, sm, knit to three stitches before marker A. Continue to round 1.

Repeat these two rounds until you have 32 stitches left between marker B and A

Foot:

Continue working in pattern across top of foot and knitting along the bottom until foot length measures 1.5 inches less than desired length.

Toe:

Start toe decreases three stitches before marker A (When knitting in the round becomes uncomfortable, switch to Double Point Needles)

Round 1: K2TOG, K1, sm, K1, SSK, Knit to three stitches before next marker, K2TOG, K1, sm, K1, SSK knit to the end of the round.

Round 2: Knit entire round

Repeat these two rounds until sock measures length of foot. (Stitch count will be determined by the length of your toe box.)

Complete the sock with a kitchener stitch.

When finished with the kitchener stitch, weave in all ends and wear with pride! Blocking makes your socks look amazing but is not necessary.


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